![]() Beware that there are many exact same sliding work tables for crazy prices. It works great as an "X" and "Y" axis adjustment for staging. The flat LED lamp is simply a work lamp that I use to help me set things up. These are the IKEA LED work lamps and I can't not recommend them more highly for $12.00. I place colored paper in the bottom of the cups to provide a variety of pastel backgrounds for my images. Consider it to be a 'nice to have' option.ĭiffusing light is absolutely necessary and I use translucent drink cups (good excuse to get a cold beer or mixed drink at the bar!). I attach it to a Raynox DCR-150 although it is not necessary for the enlarger lens alone provides high magnified images with an extension tube or bellows alone. Nikon El-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 are excellent lenses and can be had for under $40.00. The next image is what it looks like when fully assembled followed by a picture of it mounted on my camera. I use a Nikon "F" mount to M42 adapter ($8.00) to attach it to the camera. I chose size M42 for they are the most common thread size and fit many of the vintage lenses and accessories that can easily be found. The first item is simply a set of inexpensive extension tubes. Thanks for asking about the macro/micro setup that I use and I've attached some pictures of it that were requested. The hard part is convincing the ant to stay steady I guess My lighting setup is two IKEA LED desk work lamps that are $12 each and I use translucent drink cups with white paper towel to diffuse the light.Įventually I purchased a motorized focus rail so I no longer turn a crank.Here's a focus stacked image of a black ant that I. I use a remote shutter release and I move the focus rail ever so slightly, stop, and take a shot, wait a second, move forward, and repeat, repeat, repeat until I've reached the farthest point in focus of the subject. ![]() I shoot in the Mirror Up mode and I close the eye viewfinder to keep unwanted light from entering the camera. I'd place the specimen in front of the camera and while in "Live View" move the subject forward and back until the closest point of the specimen was in sharp view. My initial focus rail was a 'screw type' manually turned rail that I attached to the plywood so the camera would be securely still mounted. I used a piece of 3/4-inch plywood 12-inches wide by 30-inches long with weights on both end setting flat on a countertop. Mounting the camera on a rock-solid base is extremely important. I used a $35 enlarger lens coupled onto a $65 Raynox lens mounted on extension tubes that were $25 so you need not make a large investment to do this. Here's a focus stacked image of a black ant that I processed.
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